AVR Programming 0. The Hardware. You may be able to write the most eloquent code in the history of embedded systems but without a way to run it on the hardware it will be worthless. In this installment of the tutorial series we will: Look at some of the available AVR programmer options. Place the microcontroller on a breadboard and connect it to a power supply and a programmer. Use programming software to send some example code to the microcontroller. If you missed Part 1 take a few minutes to review that portion of the tutorial and then join us after the break. Series roadmap: Programmers. As I said before, if you want to get it on the chip you’ve got to have a programmer. There are a huge number of options, but I’ll cover a few of the easiest and least expensive. We are focusing on In- System Programming (ISP) which means that you can program the chip without removing it from the circuit. DAPA Cable. A Direct AVR Parallel Access, or DAPA cable, is an incredibly simple and cheap programming method. You can build one very quickly for a few bucks worth of parts, but the convenience comes with a few gotchas. Note that recent versions of Cygwin (starting with 1.7). On Windows NT, 2000, and XP user applications cannot directly access the parallel port. The first is that you must have a parallel port on your computer; something that modern laptop and some modern desktops don’t have. But if you’ve got an old PC around that has one this will get you up and programming in no time. In fact, the first AVR prototyping I did was with one of these cables. That is, until I discovered another gotcha. This will only program low- speed chips. If you try to run the chip’s clock at full speed (by changing fuse settings. There’s also the possibility of damaging your parallel port or worse if you do something wrong. But if you want to go for it anyway, here’s how I built mine. It connects to a computer using a DB2. As you can see in the schematic, I’ve used 1 kilo Ohm resistors on the Reset, SCK, MISO, and MOSI pins for current protection. I did not use a resistor on the ground pin. I used a piece of ribbon cable, soldering one end to each of the five signal lines shown in the schematic. On the other end of the ribbon cable I used a connector housing with six slots, filling one of them with a blank so that I could keep track of the signals. This is easy to plug into a pin header or connect to jumper wires as shown above. In retrospect it may have been a better choice to use a 2. If you go this route chances are you’ll upgrade before long so don’t agonize of the design details. SinaProg is a Hex downloader application with. OS of my computer is Windows 7 sinaprog software USBasp is a USB in-circuit programmer for Atmel AVR controllers. Linux, Mac OS X and Windows are tested. No special controllers or smd components are needed. AVRDUDE 5.11 is finally done. This is mostly a bugfix release, but also includes a few enhancements. The two most important enhancements are. This way you don't have to deal with bloatware or fuss with the limited options of. Arduino. I would be remiss to skip over using an Arduino as a programmer. They’re ubiquitous with the embedded systems crowd and if you don’t already own one, you can try to find someone to lend you theirs for a little while. All that is required is to write an AVR programmer sketch to the Arduino and make the programming connections. We’ll take a look at this method later in the post. USBtiny. ISPThe USBtiny. ISP is an In- System- Programmer based around an ATtiny. Free progdvb exe download software at UpdateStar. Prog - 18.7MB - Freeware - ProgDVB Remote allow control. Windows 7, Windows Vista and Windows XP. Software Programer gratis seperti : AVRdude, Khazama AVR Programer, eXtreme Burner AVR, SinaProg, Progisp. Manual book windows XP, windows 7 dan windows 8;. El problema es que el atmega644p con el sinaprog se me han quemado algunos a que me. AVRDUDE - AVR Downloader/UploaDEr. AVRDUDE is a utility to download/upload/manipulate the ROM and EEPROM contents of AVR microcontrollers using the in-system. USB connection (see where the name comes from?). It isn’t a bad choice for your first programmer. If you are confident in your skills you can build the circuit circuit yourself and use a DAPA cable to get the programming firmware onto the chip. Or you can just buy it from Adafruit Industries. But if you think you’re going to be serious about AVR development, you should consider shelling out the extra bucks for a professional programmer. Professional programmers. The Ateml programmers are the gold standard. They offer something that none of the other hardware we’ve covered has, the ability to recover a chip that you’ve messed up. If you want to use the reset pin as I/O, you will need to use High Voltage Parallel Programming to talk to your chip. Even if you don’t decide to do that, at some point you’re going to screw up and you’ll need to recover a process, which helps offset the extra cost of a professional programmer. It is possible to use an Arduino for High Voltage Parallel Programming to recover your AVR, but that’s another hack in itself. We use an AVR Dragon for pretty much everything. But the STK5. 00 is a very popular board even though you need a serial port to use it. It has chip sockets, buttons, and LEDs for on- board prototyping. The Dragon leaves options open with unpopulated socket footprints, and it uses a USB connection. If you’re in this for the long haul there’s no substitute for one of these choices. We should at least mention the MKII, a programmer that offers ISP in the same way that the USBtiny. ISP does, but also provides JTAG, debug wire, and few others. We have no experience with this unit so you’ll have to do your own research if you’d like to know more. As for the other programmers out there, use Google or check the comments to this post as people usually don’t like to keep their preferred programmer choice a secret. Bootloader. A bootloader is not really a programmer, but a way to get around using one. A bootloader is a set of code already on your microprocessor. It handles basic input and output neccessary to write your code into the chip’s memory. The bad news is that they do take up programming space, but you won’t have to buy a hardware programmer. Programming a chip with a bootloader on it is beyond the scope of this tutorial. But it’s not hard to learn to do. In fact, this is how it is possible to program an Arduino without a separate hardware programmer. Setting up our test circuit. Enough talk, let’s build something! We need four things: A microcontroller, something to power it, some way to program it, and something to show us it’s working. Hardware: Solderless breadboard. Jumper wires. ATmega. L0. 5 voltage regulator. LED1. 80 Ohm resistor (any resistor between 1. Ohms will work fine)A programmer (we’ll show both a DAPA and an Arduino)What we’re doing. In a nutshell, we’re going to blink an LED as our first embedded program. In order to work correctly, this circuit requires two filtering capacitors. The capacitors act like storage tanks, absorbing small fluctuations on the power rail to provide a steady source of electricity to keep our microcontroller safe and happy. As an output we are going to use an LED. We must include a resistor to limit the amount of current that will flow when the software lights it up. Without this current limiting resistor, current would flow at levels that are unsafe for the LED, the microcontroller, or both. The circuit schematic. Above is the circuit we are using as an example. The a simple 5v regulator circuit using an LM7. If you already have some type of regulated 5v supply save yourself some time and use that. You may also notice that the chip in the schematic is labelled AVR- MEGA8. The ATmega. 16. 8 that we’re using is pin- compatible with at ATmega. That means that you can swap one for the other and all 2. It is a good practice to add a few components not seen here. There should be two 0. F capacitors for decoupling; they filter out fluctuations on the power rails called noise. One between VCC and GND, the other between AVCC and AGND (as close as possible to the pins). There should also be a pull- up resistor on the reset pin with lets an incredibly small amount of current trickle into the pin at a 5. V level. This the chip from resetting by accident when it’s floating (not connected so there’s no clear 0 or 5. V value). I’ve omitted these parts for simplicity and it shouldn’t be an issue with this simple project. But as your projects get more complicated, neglecting these considerations will come back to bite you. The circuit built on a breadboard. I started building the circuit by adding the voltage regulator to the breadboard. Then connect the ground leg to the ground rail on top of your breadboard, and the output leg to the voltage rail of your breadboard. I have also added two wires that I will eventually connect to the positive and negative terminals of a 9. V battery. It is important to read the datasheet for your voltage regulator (example: LM7. Your regulator may look different from mine as they do come in different packages. In the image above, the input lead is on the left, the ground is in the middle, and the output lead is to the right. Now I’ve completed the power supply by adding the 1. F capacitor between the input leg and ground leg of the regulator, and the 1. F capacitor between the output leg and ground leg. Pay careful attention to these capacitors, one lead should be marked as negative (a band with a minus sign) on the case of each capacitor. Before adding the microcontroller it would be a good idea to check the voltage output using a multimeter. Too much juice can destroy your new chip. After checking to make sure I had a steady 5. V source, then disconnecting the battery, I added the ATmega. Note that the dimple is pointing to the left. This is important, as the standard orientation and lead numbering of a DIP package shows that pin 1 is now on the lower left, letting us easily find the other pins that we need. Power and ground have been connected to the chip as well. Pin 7 (VCC) and Pin 2. AVCC) have been connected to 5. V. Pin 8 (GND) and Pin 2. AGND) have both been connected to ground. The final step is to connect the LED to output 0 on Port D. Our schematic tell us that we want to connect the positive lead of the LED to Pin 2 on the ATmega. Pin 1). LEDs usually have a small notch flattened on one side of the plastic case to denote the negative leg of the device. The final piece of the puzzle is to connect the negative side of the LED to ground by using our resistor. In the image above I’ve hooked up a 9. V battery , but nothing happened. That’s because there’s no firmware on the chip to make the LED blink yet. We’ll need to fix that in the next step. Programming our test circuit. Check all of your connections one more time and let’s get ready to program the microcontroller. Connecting to a programmer. You only need to make six connections in order to program our chip: Voltage. Ground. Master In Slave Out (MISO)Master Out Slave In (MOSI)Reset (RST)Slave Clock (SCK)This is true for any programmer that is using In- System Programming. AVR Downloader/Uploa. DEr - Summary . ATtiny. FTDI MPSSE (FT2. 23.
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